Home

Happy

2009

Aber is very much about roadways from the bronze age to the instigation of the turnpikes Aber was a major transit point from the North Wales and Anglesey to the markets of Wrexham and Chester, there were no bridges so all rivers had to be forded or ferried across. After crossing the Menai Straights the biggest problem was the crossing of the river Conwy. If you were taking live stock to market or other places you needed to cross the river Conwy, to do that you needed two large pieces of flat land for your stock to be assembled, before you went into the water and then a large piece of land to come out on to, the land was ideal at Tal Y Cafan, drovers could cross there and so could the ferries for people

The road through Aber was surpassed by the A5 through Wales, Telford's work was more extensive In places he followed existing roads, but he also built new links, including the Menai Suspension Bridge to connect the mainland with Anglesey and the Stanley Embankment to Holy Island. Telford's road was complete with the opening of the Menai Suspension Bridge in 1826 The was designed to allow stagecoaches to carry post between London and Holyhead, and then on to Ireland: throughout its length the gradient never exceeds 5%.

The route through Wales retains many of the original features of Telford's road and has, since 1995, been re-cognised as an historic route worthy of preservation. However when the river Conwy was bridged at Conwy the fortunes of Aber changed and it was the east west route that was forged, although it was not easy as this picture shows

THE POST ROAD IN CAERNARVONSHIRE.
 

Particulars of the early post roads in North Wales during the period in which they slowly evolved from primitive ways and bridle-paths to highways are quite obscure. The post road in Caernarvonshire was a late development; the main traffic from London to Dublin had for centuries passed through Chester, the journey being continued by sea from that port. The crossing was long and often dangerous, and vexatious delays were frequently caused by adverse winds. An occasional traveller, tiring of the long wait at Chester, and seeking a shorter and quicker sea passage, would go overland via Conway, cross the Conway River by a ferry at Conway or Tal-y-cafn, and the Menai Straits by a ferry. To catch the ferry you had to walk out onto the sands at low tide and wait for the ferry man to come out from Beaumaris and collect you and take you back to Beaumaris, and then hope to find a ship at that port in which to complete his journey. Beaumaris was an important port for Anglesey and North Caernarvonshire in the 15th century and had been so throughout the later middle Ages. There were more merchants at Beaumaris than in any other borough of North Wales. Ships from the port were frequently requisitioned by the Crown during the 14th and 15th centuries for the safe passage of the Justifier to Ireland, and in the town's charter, granted by Queen Elizabeth in 1562, it is stated that Beaumaris is “a very safe and suitable port for all our subjects going to and from Ireland." Members of the Irish nobility and Dublin merchants began to travel this way, occasionally a Lord Deputy of Ireland would find Beaumaris a pleasant place at which to stay for a few days on his way to and from that country. A letter of 1580 mentions that the “Lord Deputy is still delayed in Anglesey by contrary winds." During the Tudor period, too, the Government adopted the line to Holyhead for its postal service; but Chester Quay and other places on the Dee estuary long remained the principal ports of embarkation for Ireland. The route through Holyhead did not become really popular with travelers until the latter half of the 18th century.
In many parts of England and Wales the roads made by the Romans formed part of, or gave the line to, the modern highways, but such was not the case in Caernarvonshire. The Roman road in this county ran from Caerhun (Conovium), a fort by the Tal-y-cafn ferry, through Bwlch-y-ddeufaen to Aber; it is presumed to have then gone up to Llanllechid, crossed the Ogwen river and proceeded along the foothills to Caernarvon. Travelers acquainted with this district, those who crossed from Beaumaris to Aber, and drovers with their cattle, often made use of that portion of the road between Aber and Caerhun, but it still remains a mountain track. There was a plan for a Turnpike on the route of the Aber to Caerhun path. When the time came for the through traffic along the northern part of the county to be accommodated, the line took quite a different route.
Between the time of the Roman occupation and the period known as the Early Modern, the need for communication to and from Caernarvonshire was very small. The gentry travelled occasionally, Government officials paid their visits to the castellated towns, bards and pilgrims moved about, and drovers, as has been mentioned, took their cattle through to England. There was no call for heavy traffic; there were no towns of any magnitude, the county had no industrial area, it was sparsely populated, and the roads were just tracks that led from village to village and to the local markets. Aber was an area were they held large markets. Travelling was a major adventure until well in the 18th century. It may occasion a smile nowadays to read that men journeyed across the country accompanied by guides. Indeed the guide's services were essential to a stranger; there were few milestones and fewer signposts, and with the land unenclosed it was easy to take the wrong turning. Post boys were frequently employed as guides, and the countryside knew when one was travelling by the sound of his horn.
The need for a better system of communication between London and the more distant parts of the country, so that the King's messengers might travel quickly with important documents led the Government to establish the post service, and the Post Office has been, from its inception, most persistent in its demands for improved conditions. A post route came into being by the Master of the Posts informing certain towns that the line would pass their way, and instructing them to arrange for a responsible person to provide horses for the service and see that he carried out his duties satisfactorily. The civic authorities thereupon appointed certain men, usually innkeepers, to be at the service of the posts, and in the course of time these men became known as postmasters. After leaving the Conway ferry the road or track leads past the town to the shore, skirts Penmaen-bach and Penmaenmawr, then strikes across the Lavan Sands this crossing was a low water one only, to a point opposite Beaumaris, where another ferry operated. Ogilby's map also shows at Conway the beginning of a road leading to Bangor by the Sychnant, and a continuation of it across Penmaenmawr, both sections to be followed “when ye tide is in." No further details of this road are given but its line lay through Bangor and the Porthaethwy ferry to Llangefni, where it joined the road from Beaumaris. Cartographers and publishers of guide-books copied Ogilby's map of the North Wales road without alteration for the next hundred years, though as early as 1669 the Rev. William Williams of Beaumaris expressed his opinion that the glory of the route across the sands had already departed. " Velaven is a sand at low water reaching from Penmaenmawr to the ferry at Beaumaris, about three or four miles. N.B. This was formerly the direct road to Ireland." The route across the sands was very exposed and often dangerous; the ferry was workable only at low tide, which meant a period of three to four hours out of the twelve.
Bangor was developing in the early 18th century. “It lies on the great Road from London to Holyhead and is well accommodated with Inns." the route across the sands continued to be used by post boys and couriers and was referred to as the post route. The postmaster of Beaumaris, in 1623 petitioned to the Justices of Assize in North Wales that posts might be fixed in the sands to mark out the track. “And many times, when sudden mists and fogges doe fall the danger is very great upon the sandes that ye Kinges packetts and subjects are like to perishe." The petition was passed to the local Justices, but it is not known whether any action was taken at the time or not. The first reference to the posts being in position appeared one hundred and fifty years later. “We crossed the ferry at Beaumaris, and a ride of four miles over the sand at low water, where the true path was sufficiently pointed out by posts at proper distances, carried us on to the Irish Turnpike Road at Aber.
The archives of Quarter Sessions contain numerous references to this procedure, and the following instance, taken from the records of Caernarvonshire is of particular interest to this article. " Friday sixth day of October, 26th year of Reign of King George III. Richard Griffith, clerk, one of our justices for the amendment and preservation of the Highways upon his own view doth present That from the time whereof the memory of Man is not to the contrary, there was and yet is a certain common and ancient King's Highway leading from the town of Bangor and towards the Town of Conway used for all the King's subjects with their horses, coaches, carts, carriages to go, return and pass at their will, and that a certain part of the same King's Common Highway beginning at a certain place called Tal-y-bont and ending at Tai'r Meibion, situate, lying and being in the parish of Llanllechid ... in length 3520 yards and in breadth 24 feet... is very ruinous, deep, broken and in great decay for want of dew reparation and amendment, so the subjects, thro' the same way with their horses, coaches, etc. . . .could not during the time aforesaid nor yet can go, return or pass as they ought or were wont to do to the great damage and common nuisance of all the King's subjects . . . And the inhabitants of the Parish of Llanllechid . . . ought to repair and amend when and so often as it shall be necessary. In testimony whereof the said Richard Griffith to these presents hath set his hand and seal this sixth day of October in the year aforesaid." The work was either not done or no certificate was received from the justices, and the sequel is to be found in the records of the following year. “An order made at the Easter Quarter Sessions of the Peace of this County: a fine of £50 was laid and imposed upon the inhabitants of the Parish of Llanllechid for not repairing the King's Highway beginning at etc. etc., upon a presentment of Richard Griffith, clerk, etc., and the Sheriff hath since made a return that he hath levied the said sum of £50 on the goods and chattels of the inhabitants of the Parish of Llanllechid as by the same writ he was commanded. It is therefore ordered by this Court that the said Richard Griffith be and he is hereby empowered to lay the said sum of £50 in repairing, widening and amending the King's Common Highway aforesaid." The Parish of Aber was similarly presented and fined at the same meetings of the Quarter Sessions for neglecting part of this same road, leading from Wig to Aber. The date of the presentments is significant; it coincides with the first year's working of the Mail Coaches in Caernarvonshire. The Mail Coach started to run on the Chester—Holyhead route in October 1785. The presentments suggest that the parishes had been remiss in the performance of their statutory duties, but really public opinion was sharply divided as to the extent of these e obligations and how far they should be carried out. The controversy about the duties of parishes regarding the upkeep of roads for the benefit of through traffic waxed strongly, and the protest that Thomas Pennant made a few years later against the indictment of parishes in Flintshire, may well have expressed the state of mind of the parishioners of Llanllechid and Aber at the time of their presentments. “Many parts of the road may have been allowed to have been indifferent, but they were adequate to the use of the country, not only for the use of farmers and the carriers, but also the luxury of carriages." Nobody was obliged to make a new road to any place, of to build a bridge where there was already a ford, but once these were constructed they had to be maintained. The upkeep of the roads, as has been shown, was the duty of the parish; bridges, on the other hand, were a direct charge on the county. “It is ordered by this Court that a certain Public Bridge over the river Ogwen, commonly called the Llandegai Bridge, with 300 feet of the King's Highway next adjoining to each end thereof, be repaired, and that the Treasurer of this County do out of county Stock in his hands pay all such sums of money as the Clerk shall certify to him to be done and owing for the doing thereof."
After the Civil War the traffic increased rapidly, so much so that the soft unmetalled ways crumbled beneath it and became as bad as they had been in the Middle Ages, and probably worse. Poor parishes, within whose boundaries lay part of a main road, found it impossible to bear the burden, and appealed to the Quarter Sessions for assistance these bodies were the first Turnpike Trusts. The Trusts were given almost identical constitutions and powers; the powers were given for a number of years, usually twenty-one, but every trust in due course applied for and obtained a new Act extending its term. The first road to be “turnpiked "  in Caernarvonshire was the length between Tal-y-cafn and Conway ferries, under powers granted to a Denbighshire trust, in 1759. Ten years later in 1769, the trust which became known as the Caernarvonshire Old Turnpike Trust, received its statutory powers, to maintain the road from Tal-y-cafn ferry through Conway, Bangor, Caernarvon to Pwllheli. The track across the face of Penmaenmawr was by far the most difficult and hazardous part of the road taken over by the trust. During the early 1700's Lord Bulkeley had been actively engaged on a scheme for improving the track, and among his notes on the subject are the following:—" its proposed for ye greater safety and encouragement of those whose occasions bring you that way to make ye road full 3 yards broad with a wall between it and the precipice so as to afford a good and free passage for a coach and any horseman yt happens to meet it. This Principal having been laid before ye Duke of Ormond, and his Grace being pleased to recommend it to ye Nobility, Gentry and Merchants of Ireland and meeting with encouragement there ... Ye assistance given by Ireland being so considerable its hoped will encourage you whose occupations cause you to travel that Road, generously to assist in so public a good." Browne Willis was presumably referring to the improvements brought about by Lord Bulkeley's efforts when he wrote about Bangor in 1721. "and since the way over the Penmaenmawr is so much mended one might expect Bangor should grow populous and be daily improving in Trade and Building." According to Boydells print of Penmaenmawr in 1750, the wall between the road and the precipice had disappeared, and by the time the Turnpike Trust came into being Lord Bulkeley's road had greatly deteriorated. It was quite unsuitable for the vehicular traffic that was then developing. In 1769 Parliament made a grant, “a sum of £2,000 to be paid for the purpose of repairing and widening the road to be applied to making the road at the foot of the Mountain of Penmaenmawr."
The old track from the direction of Aber, that led into Bangor past the Gatehouse Chapel, St. Cross Church, through Tal y bont and Llandegai, was developed and turnpiked by the Trust and made into part of the mail-coach route to the ferry. The Llandegai Gate was at that time situated in the centre of the village near Ty Mawr ; the road from Tal y bont crossed the Ogwen river by a wooden bridge near " Felin Isa," a flour mill where the Penrhyn timber-yard now stands, and came up to the Llandegai Church along a way that still exists, and is known as " Lon Pistyll." It then lay through Penrhyn Park (which was not walled in at that time), and followed a course roughly parallel with the present main road, between one and two hundred yards to the east, crossed the Cegin river at a spot referred to as Rhyd or Bont Marchogion, and passed through the Penrhyn Nursery. Entering Bangor at the spot where it joined the road coming up from Port Penrhyn, it passed in front of the Penrhyn Arms Hotel, the building that later became the first home of the University College of North Wales.
The Act of Union of 1800 had an immediate effect on the volume of traffic passing through North Wales. Complaints were soon heard about the poor state of the roads; they were inadequate to bear additional traffic and quite unsuitable for rapid movement. By 1810 the matter had become so pressing that Parliament appointed a Select Committee to take evidence and consider what should be done. This was the first of a number of such bodies.
The ferries of Conway and Porthaethwy ceased to ply on the days the respective bridges were opened, and their owners were suitably compensated. The Beaumaris ferry had been working at a loss for many years and in 1829 the Beaumaris Corporation felt it was time it should be abandoned. A’ notice was thereupon published in the press in December of that year: “That the Passage of Water and Ferry at the Point, across the River Menai to the Lavan Sands, will be discontinued after the first day of February, 1830, and the Ferry ceased to be worked from that day. Whereof this notice is given for the information of the public."
Not much information is available about the Porthesgeb ferry after the law suit. It is interesting to note, however, in passing, that of the four ancient rights of ferriage to which references have been made, the only one that functions today is part of the Bishop's, namely the Garth ferry at Bangor. The City of Bangor acquired it in December, 1895, “the Ecclesiastical Commissioners having conveyed to the Corporation for the sum of £1,895, certain lands and rights of ferry at Bangor, being formerly part of the possessions of the Bishop,
This is an abridged copy of an article by   R. T. PRITCHARD.
published by the Caernarvonshire Historical Society in 1952

        Some notes about the state of the Post road though Aber
1655
The Old bridge had its problems this is the one you can see the ramparts for in the field across the river and the village side is under the bungalow on the corner of the village
In the court presentments made by Grand Jury: that the bridge called Pont Aber, pa.[rish] Aber between Conwey [Conwy] and Holyhead has fallen down; and that the house of correction needs "stocke and reparacion"
Appended: NOTE that £50 is to be levied on the county for the house of correction.
petition of Harry John ap William and John Evans for securing of financial aid for the repair of Aber bridge which was damaged in a storm while the petitioners were building it. Also there was a petition of Harry John ap William and John Evan [sic], masons. They ask for aid in the reconstruction of Aber bridge, blown down in a storm

We can see from the courts that the bridges were again having troubles and who would pay for the repair
1735
1. William Roberts of Llanroost [Llanrwst] co. Denbigh, mason, Robert Williams of Conway [Conwy], mason, John Prichard of Clynnog, mason, Edward Griffith of Conway [Conwy], gent., Griffith William of Dolyddelan [Dolwyddelan], yeoman and Evan Jones of Crugg [Crug], gent.
2. Humphrey Roberts of Bryn-y-Neuadd , Esq., John Bulkeley of Baron-hill, co. Anglesey, gent. and John Hughes of weeg [Y Wig], gent., overseers.
BOND for the repair of bridges over the Aber River. Witnessed by Richard David and William Hughes.
1. William Roberts of Lloost [Llanrwst] co. Denbigh, mason, Robert Williams of Conway [Conwy], mason and John Prichard of Clynnog, mason.
2. Humphrey Roberts of Bryn y Neuodd, Esq., John Bulkeley of Baronhill co. Anglesey, gent. and John Hughes of Weeg, gent., overseers.
MEMORANDUM OF AN AGREEMENT to repair two bridges lying on the Aber River, namely Aber Bridge and Pont Newidd, and to keep them in good repair for seven years. Witnessed by Hugh Price and William Hughes.
Appended: Receipt of payment from John Hughes and John Bulkeley,[overseers] for the above work. Witnessed by Richard David and William Hughes. Dated 1735, May 29.

Records show that the roads were in trouble caused by the increase traffic
1787
a) MEMORANDUM of a £20 fine to be imposed on the inhabitants of pa.[rish] Aber for not repairing the King’s Highway between Woodgate and the village of Aber. Endorsed: Return of John Lloyd, sheriff, confirming above.
 b) MEMORANDUM of a £20 fine to be imposed on the inhabitants of pa.[rish] Aber for not repairing the Kings Highway between Tal y bont and Tai’r Meibion. Endorsed: Return of John Lloyd, sheriff, confirming above.
c) MEMORANDUM of a £30 fine to be imposed on the inhabitants of pa.[rish] Gyffin [Y Gyffin] for not repairing the King’s Highway from the boundary of the parish to Werndda Hill under Llechanifsa and between Wernfachena and Bodidda. Endorsed: Return of John Lloyd, sheriff, confirming above.
MOTION to Quarter Sessions that John Hughes do what is proper with regard to repair of roads in pas. [parishes] Aber and Llanllechid. Imposition of fines to be held over for repair work has begun.
Appended: 26 April 1787. Also for pa.[rish] Gyffin [Y Gyffin].
Letters to Lord Newborough show that the road was having trouble coping with the burdens of the increased traffic
1846
LETTER: Owen Jones, Caernarfon to Lord [Newborough], noting the poor state of the road and side drains from Talybont? to Aber and the steps he has taken to improve matters, in the absence of Mr. E.G. Roberts, who is at Trefarthir. He has employed carts and men to lay on field stones. The road is subject to very heavy carting. Document defective: Stamp cut off.
LETTER: Edward Griffith Roberts, [road surveyor], Bangor to Lord Newborough, re the bad state of the roads between Llandygai and Aber. As the roads have no pitched or paved bottom foundation they cannot stand the overwhelming continued weight of the railway cartage of bricks, iron, timber, stones, etc., especially with the continued rain. Mr. Morgan, the treasurer, must fork out money for repairs, as it will soon be dangerous for the Mail. The farmers will not carry off the scraped road mud as they are sowing their wheat.
LETTER: H[ugh] P. Manley, Caernarfon to Lord N[ewborough], re damage caused to the road near Aber, by the Railway Company’s heavy wagons. A Mr. Birchall of Lancashire suggests that a temporary chain be erected across the road where the Company’s carts pass and a toll be levied on them. He is told that Sir Richard Bulkeley is raising his rents some 20 per cent.
LETTER: Edward G. Roberts, [road surveyor], Aber to Lord Newborough, re the bad state of the road from Bangor to Conwy, which is caused by [the heavy traffic connected with] the Railway Works. He enquires whether the contents of the enclosed letter [not present] from Mr. Owen Jones are in accordance with the wishes of his Lordship, as Chairman, and the other Trustees [of the Turnpike Trust]. There should be a working foreman resident in the district. Money is needed for the necessary repair work which must replace the hasty cobbling now done.
LETTER: Edward Griffith Roberts, Bangor to Lord Newborough. He thanks him for the explanation given re Mr. O. Jones’ letter. He has inspected the road from Conwy to Bangor (with the exception of that part from the marsh near Conwy) and the Penmaenmawr and Penmaenbach roads. The information about their bad state is much magnified, although near the town the road is cut up by the Railway works. The Aber to Llandegai road is so bad that Sir Charles Smith cannot go from Pendyffryn to Baron Hill in his own carriage. The wet weather and bad materials afforded (only round field ?hard stones, not rock stone) present great difficulties. The road from Aber to Llandegai ?must be re-laid.

Even in the 1850 you couldn’t do as you liked with the roads
1850
LETTER: Rev. Robert Williams, Aber, to Lord Newborough. The highway surveyors are objecting because he acted without their permission. He sends his Lordship a plan of the disputed wasteland at the junction of the post road at Aber village
LETTER: Rev. R. Williams, Aber to Lord Newborough. He has just done something illegal and very foolish. The alteration in the post road left a small piece of land vacant. This land serves no useful purpose, in fact idle persons and noisy children play games there every Sunday and Fete day. When a piece of land was donated by Richard Bulkeley to provide a more convenient means of access to the road, he took action without seeking permission to get rid of the unwanted strip of land. He is aware that he has acted without permission from the highway authority but is prepared to make amends